Sous Chef Anthony Secviar expediting at The Pass (above).
The kitchen (above) looking across The Pass into Pastry.
Assemblage (above and below) of Moulard Duck "Foie Gras en Terrine" (Marcona Almonds Glaze, Sunchokes, Arugula and Sour Michigan Cherries).
500g tin of Caviar (above) for Quenelles of Caviar on "Oysters and Pearls" (Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar).
Sour Michigan Cherry Puree (above) being spooned onto plates.
Mise en place at The Pass (above and below).
Sous Chef Anthony Secviar (above) expediting at The Pass.
Canapé and Fish stations (above) with Sous Vide mise en place for Lobster Tails.
"Oysters and Pearls" waiting (above)...
Chefs des Parties at Salad and Cheese stations (above) with Salmon Tartare Tuile Amuse.
There are many more images of the February 11, 2009 dinner service at The French Laundry that need to be added to this pictorial. It takes quite a long time to upload them, so I will continue to embellish this particular blog throughout the day.
As a chef I am obviously engaged in kitchen operations yet one cannot dismiss the efforts of the front of the house staff during the service hours in the kitchen. This is a titanic undertaking every single day. The duties of runners, servers, captains, etc. are a determining and defining element of what service is all about. There are particular jobs for everyone and all are expected to act and react with precision and determination. I quietly smiled in complete appreciation of the quick acknowledgement of individuals as they are called to The Pass (the call is "Hands, please") to receive their numbers (the table number and the place setting ) and thusly, hand-carry the finished plates to serve guests one of the thirteen courses during the Chef's Tasting...
The desire, the impeccable attire, the grace, the focus and teamwork of the FOH (front of the house) staff is more than just their training. It is who they are. Having spent many years in the theatre I can absolutely make the case that this is live theatre "par excellence". My observation point allowed me to feel the pulse of the kitchen, the efficient interplay of hands at The Pass and the constant pace of the action. Goosebumps - it is that special.
There are actually three Passes. The heart of the operation. Stainless steel counters with slip-proof mats lined with white porcelain plates, covers, and specialty service ware. Like surgeons in an operating room, the overhead lights illuminating the white linen-lined Passes where craft become art. Tweezers are produced to remove the slightest imperfections on the plates... One Pass for canapé, fish, meat, and vegetables - including an entire VIP menu last evening - another Pass dedicated to salads, cheese and amuse, and lastly, the Pastry Pass for desserts, Chocolate Confections and Mignardise. Each Pass is replete with wiping cloths for plates, napkins for hot plate usage, salts of various nomenclature, plastic deli containers with appropriately labeled sauces and condiments for that evenings menu, "magic spoons" (my name for the silver spoons in white crocks that every chef de partie provides themselves with), menus severely taped onto linen with the ubiquitous green painter's tape. The list of VIP guests dis-likes and allergies to re-route certain flavor profiles as to make the guests experience safe and personal. Ah, mise en place...it also makes me smile and all cozy and warm inside.
Two observations that have nothing to do with service but have everything to do with impeccable service - twice I noticed small spills of salt and food, once at the meat station and once at the pass. I was nervous that I noticed them and was waiting for CDC (Chef de Cuisine) Corey Lee to also notice them... I counted the time that each spill laid in wait...5 seconds...10 seconds...15 seconds. 15 seconds! Both were wiped away and their existence lost in my memory. CSI wouldn't have known they were ever there... That is, to me, just one singularly important event in a litany of important acts that happen all the time in the kitchen of TFL. Peace.
There are many more images of the February 11, 2009 dinner service at The French Laundry that need to be added to this pictorial. It takes quite a long time to upload them, so I will continue to embellish this particular blog throughout the day.
As a chef I am obviously engaged in kitchen operations yet one cannot dismiss the efforts of the front of the house staff during the service hours in the kitchen. This is a titanic undertaking every single day. The duties of runners, servers, captains, etc. are a determining and defining element of what service is all about. There are particular jobs for everyone and all are expected to act and react with precision and determination. I quietly smiled in complete appreciation of the quick acknowledgement of individuals as they are called to The Pass (the call is "Hands, please") to receive their numbers (the table number and the place setting ) and thusly, hand-carry the finished plates to serve guests one of the thirteen courses during the Chef's Tasting...
The desire, the impeccable attire, the grace, the focus and teamwork of the FOH (front of the house) staff is more than just their training. It is who they are. Having spent many years in the theatre I can absolutely make the case that this is live theatre "par excellence". My observation point allowed me to feel the pulse of the kitchen, the efficient interplay of hands at The Pass and the constant pace of the action. Goosebumps - it is that special.
There are actually three Passes. The heart of the operation. Stainless steel counters with slip-proof mats lined with white porcelain plates, covers, and specialty service ware. Like surgeons in an operating room, the overhead lights illuminating the white linen-lined Passes where craft become art. Tweezers are produced to remove the slightest imperfections on the plates... One Pass for canapé, fish, meat, and vegetables - including an entire VIP menu last evening - another Pass dedicated to salads, cheese and amuse, and lastly, the Pastry Pass for desserts, Chocolate Confections and Mignardise. Each Pass is replete with wiping cloths for plates, napkins for hot plate usage, salts of various nomenclature, plastic deli containers with appropriately labeled sauces and condiments for that evenings menu, "magic spoons" (my name for the silver spoons in white crocks that every chef de partie provides themselves with), menus severely taped onto linen with the ubiquitous green painter's tape. The list of VIP guests dis-likes and allergies to re-route certain flavor profiles as to make the guests experience safe and personal. Ah, mise en place...it also makes me smile and all cozy and warm inside.
Two observations that have nothing to do with service but have everything to do with impeccable service - twice I noticed small spills of salt and food, once at the meat station and once at the pass. I was nervous that I noticed them and was waiting for CDC (Chef de Cuisine) Corey Lee to also notice them... I counted the time that each spill laid in wait...5 seconds...10 seconds...15 seconds. 15 seconds! Both were wiped away and their existence lost in my memory. CSI wouldn't have known they were ever there... That is, to me, just one singularly important event in a litany of important acts that happen all the time in the kitchen of TFL. Peace.
~R
