Monday, January 19, 2009

#5 - 19 January 2009 - The Need To Feed


So, once again why do we feel "The Need to Feed..."? I know why I do. It became clear, as it did this evening (after cooking for P.S., whom I am staying with in Santa Rosa) whilst I sit and communicate my love, philosophy and desire about food with someone who understands; someone who has just received a meal (now known as "Salmon Santa Rosa" that has affected them intrinsically, viscerally, physiologically and spiritually. I know that I do the act of cooking for myself but I create the food for others. I want the food to taste a certain way - the methods and techniques that I follow are created by others, but the food on the plate in front of me is all mine, although I'm cooking for someone else. I won't go out of the way to cook for myself (bologna, pasta and rice works for me as subsistence food...not all together, though!) but add one more person to the mix and now I have "The Need to Feed..." Here's the rub. That's not art. That's not even craft. That's providing a basic human need (eating food) and applying magic to it (through method, technique, attitude...). Yes, I wrote magic. We are Magicians. We can take the basic foods and apply heat, cold, chemicals and such, and then manipulate people to have a reaction - a reaction that we are intending them to have. Manipulation (thank you Chef D. K.). Day 1 @ TFL. This is the reason that you are reading this, now, isn't it...? An incredibly warm and pleasant day in Napa Valley. Sun, people migrating around Washington Street in Yountville, the breeze wafting up the valley... I arrived at the Laundry at 9:15 a.m. Early, of course. Not too exact (meeting was pre-set at 9:30 a.m.). But early. NEVER LATE. Never, never, never, never, never, never. Did I state never? I thought so. It is amazing the lessons we learn in life. Met my fellow stagiers (representing California, Sweden and Mexico...). I am the eldest. I may be older than most of the cooks at TFL. Heck, I am older than all of the employees! I'm learning humility, here. O.K., this isn't about me. This is about the team. Working as one. Take care of the guest and the guest will take care of you (words of wisdom from Mr. Keller related later in the morning). But we know that...! It is sometimes really clarifying when someone you respect says something you already know. Remember, I'm the student, now. I'm on a quest to learn and relearn... The semi-annual meeting of the employees and staff for TFL, Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery and Ad Hoc - the four restaurants that TKRG (Thomas Keller Restaurant Group) own and operate in Yountville. A very young, hip crowd of courteous, caring and gracious people. Cool videos, movies and pictures of the people, food and experiences that are of those aforementioned businesses. The business aspect of our craft is presented by the CEO - the stress on the business - and the stress of doing business in the current economic climate. Then suddenly Chef Keller is in front of us on the stage - elucidating his vision and his philosophy. He answers questions from employees - What did you think was going to happen 17 years ago when you saw TFL property for the first time? What were you trying to create 17 years ago? Where has he come from and where are they (he and his employees, partners and staff...) going is a major theme. He's pretty simple to listen to. I've heard the stories and read the histories. Now he's speaking those words, working himself around the questions and talking with us, thanking many, many people in the audience - personal, heartfelt warmth... We go back to TFL. Take all the usual pictures out front, the facade, the garden across the street with the hothouse waiting to be descended upon by eager cooks ready to uproot the day’s vegetable offerings... Farm to table. Icicle radishes, various beets, turnips, greens and peas just 45 minutes from the ground, washed and presented on your plate at dinner or lunch... We've got the tour. Everything is immaculate. Everything is clean. I said everything is CLEAN. The stoves have been disassembled of various parts and are being cleaned, dried and spray painted silver. I talked to the Hobart repairman and he said they do this every two months. Why? Because they care. It's not just Thomas Keller. It is everyone there. You can feel it. They are charged with something special. I'm realizing the cost of the meal has more to do with the people, the ambiance and the effort before we even speak about the food and wine. The wine room(s) is really cool.... Not privy to them just yet, but from a sneak peak, some old favorites show their labels; Meursault, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Sancerre and others... Now, I'm in the kitchen. Suddenly a stealthy figure appears next to me...now, we are addressing each other as "chef"...now, I'm talking to him and shaking his hand and now, he is gone, off to receive an award in Spain with Adria, Blumenthal and Gagnaire. Then off to Lyons to judge the Bocuse d'Or (his Sous Chef Timothy Hollingsworth is representing the USA - no pressure there...). Cool. No problem. I belong here. I have learned the same values and have the same work ethic. A Good feeling. Below are the Core Values one must possess to work within the TKRG. Do you have them? I'm referring to you, the professionals that are reading this (not you Mom...): Modesty Integrity Respect Responsibility Awareness Initiative Collaboration Consistency Impact Success Legacy I've thought these things - I've taught these things - I've proclaimed these things - I've lived these aspects. Do you? Can you? Will you? I bought into this a long time ago. Now, here's a god of gastronomy talking to me about working within the group, as one, to achieve great things. YES! Of course! It takes the group of like-minded individuals to accomplish what one person has as a vision. Yeah, hard work, etc. is important too. The atmosphere must be fostered, however. The success of the whole depends upon the success of the individual. So be a leader, allow individuals to succeed, mentor them, push, pull and cajole them if necessary...! Learn to dance with each other. I love to dance.... Develop great work habits. Don't hire people without them!!!! I like confident, proud people who take initiative and responsibility. Those who go the extra mile are the ones I want on my side! Oh yeah....WORK CLEAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I've not heard anything new today. Not surprisingly. I told you I was old... But I heard it from someone who matters. I do trust myself, but this is my hero. Funny, but I never thought I'd feel this much like a kid again... Rebirth. Relearning. Reinvigorating. "Hardware stores have customers. Restaurants, however, have guests". -Patrick O'Connell The mission statement of TFL is "to represent the most definitive dining experience by means of incomparable cuisine, service, wine, ambiance and memories". Attention to detail. Passionate pursuit. Sense of Urgency. Fresh. Creative. Innovative. Team players. Buy in to those goals and philosophies and the rest is easy... I'm on the bottom rung of the restaurant kitchen brigade here and I'm still a valuable asset to the organization. Humility, remember...? Excellent. I can't wait to introduce myself to the dishwashers. ~R P.S. Oh, by the way. I'm off for the next two days.... It's my weekend! Pretty funny. I've waited a lifetime to be here so I can wait a little longer. 3:30 p.m. on Wednesday. I wish you could grab an apron and ride with me... I've got more to see, say and write. Tomorrow. Peace.